Shuttle Loom Samples. Part 2: The Denim.

Shuttle Loom Samples. Part 1: The Wash Test.

I received the denim about three months ago. It took a long to get to me. When it finally arrived I was instantly impressed with the quality. I was hoping to see the back 14 oz denim but unfortunaley it was not included in the samples I received. None the less now I know that they can obtain supirior quality denim at a fair price. In the next post I will explain the different neuonces in each sample I got.

The first thing I did was a wash sample. I wrapped half of the denim around a penny and tied the top with thread. This was to emulate the fading that occurs on and around the knee on a normal pair of jeans. You will notice a small brownish paint circle to the right of the penny. Since the selvage line was cut off this was to help me tell the difference between each type of denim.

After they were all wrapped up. I sanded the ends of each sample. I should have used a smaller grain of sandpaper but shear excitment got the best of me.

Once they were all ruffed up. I threw them in the wash.

Stitches 101.

Lock Stitch

The is the most common stitch made by most sewing machines. Its created by a top thread locking into a bottom thread.




Chain Stitch.

A chain stitch is created by looping the bottom thread around the top thread. It is less secure than the lock stitch because if one end comes undone the whole stitch will unravel.

Here is a great animation of how both a chain stitch and a lock stitch work.

Double Chain Stitch.

Same as a chain stitch but made with two needles.

Over Lock.

This is used on the edges of fabric to prevent them from unraveling.

Eyelet/Keyhole.

This machine sews the holes for buttons. I have not seen a diagram for this actual stitch but I have a very interesting video of a machine in action.



Keyholer in action.

Bar Tacking.

This stitch is mainly used to attach belt loops and back pockets. The tight zigzag patern of this stitch allows it to hold a great amount weight, up to 400 lbs!

The stitch right above the rivet is the bar tacking.

Lap Seam/Butt Seam.

This is kind of confusing but lap seaming is the how the belt loops are made. There is an actual machine that will trim and align the fabric, sew it shut and cut it to the desired length.

This link will explain everything.

An Ideal List of Denim Manufacturing Tools.

1. Industrial Sewing Machine.

2. Industrial Chain Stitch Machine.

3. Serger

4. Rivet Press

5. Keyhole/Button hole cutter

6. Keyhole Sewing Machine

7. Shears.

8. Leather Stamping Tools.

So I am sure I am missing somethings here. I know there is a machine that just makes belt loops. I would also like to know the history behind Union Special sewing machines but I really haven't been able to find anything. I will keep up dating this as I figure everything out.

Deconstructed Nudie's.

Here is a pair of deconstructed Nudie's that I have been working on forever! I forgot before I started this project that the crotch had blown out and been repaired. I had to rip a most of the seam out. It was really disappointing because I am very interested in how the center seam meets the inside leg seam.

This is the before picture. These jeans were one more wash away from rotting to nothing. I think there were 100% pure vegetable indigo dye but I am not sure. The fit is Slim Jim and the size is a 32. Worn for about 3 years, washed numerous times. Oh these are my first pair of raw denim ever.

Here is the back. I got over zealous and took off the back patch and the pocket.

Here is everything except the inside pocket. I will put it in the picture below. I will only take apart one leg now. When I get everything else I need together I will use the other leg to help me figure out how everything is assembled.

Here is a close up of the back pocket.




These are two closer photos of all the different parts. You can really see how horrible the grundle area came apart. The jean practically melted in my hands.

Two More Patterns WITH Button Fly.

Check them out here. They Civil War Replicas. It is the only pant pattern I have come across that has a button fly . LINK.

Two More Patterns.

Here are two more patterns for a jean and a cow boy dress pant. I think either would work well for a pair of jeans.


Jean Link.


Dress Pant Link.

Here are some interesting old jean patents.

The image above is of a continuos fly made from one piece of denim. Most flys are made from two separate pieces. I am in the process of deconstructing an old pair of Nudies for pattern making ideas and information gathering purposes. I will show how a two part fly is constructed in an up coming post. Warehouse's Heller's Cafe reproduction jean (pictured below the patent) has a continuous fly. This is supposed to be stronger than a two part fly because it doesn't rely on threat/stitching to hold the fly together.

This patent shares a lot in common with the one above it but it utilizes a metal loop at the bottom of the fly. I love this idea but worry about the comfort level. Having a metal bar so close to the family jewels might cause problems. I don't know of any jeans being made today that have this feature. Its scarcity makes me think it was a better idea in theory than in reality

This is a non-rivet reenforcement patent. It shows any fabric being sewed onto the stress points in places where you usually see rivets. It could be leather, extra denim, ect. The modern reproductions jeans (pictured below the patent) are again Warehouse. This time however its there Duck Digger line.

This is another very cool pocket reinforcement idea. In stead of adding fabric, the top layer of fabric is sewn over the stress points. I have never seen a reproduction of this but I really like the idea. It is both esthetically appealing and structurally sound.