Stitches 101.

Lock Stitch

The is the most common stitch made by most sewing machines. Its created by a top thread locking into a bottom thread.




Chain Stitch.

A chain stitch is created by looping the bottom thread around the top thread. It is less secure than the lock stitch because if one end comes undone the whole stitch will unravel.

Here is a great animation of how both a chain stitch and a lock stitch work.

Double Chain Stitch.

Same as a chain stitch but made with two needles.

Over Lock.

This is used on the edges of fabric to prevent them from unraveling.

Eyelet/Keyhole.

This machine sews the holes for buttons. I have not seen a diagram for this actual stitch but I have a very interesting video of a machine in action.



Keyholer in action.

Bar Tacking.

This stitch is mainly used to attach belt loops and back pockets. The tight zigzag patern of this stitch allows it to hold a great amount weight, up to 400 lbs!

The stitch right above the rivet is the bar tacking.

Lap Seam/Butt Seam.

This is kind of confusing but lap seaming is the how the belt loops are made. There is an actual machine that will trim and align the fabric, sew it shut and cut it to the desired length.

This link will explain everything.

An Ideal List of Denim Manufacturing Tools.

1. Industrial Sewing Machine.

2. Industrial Chain Stitch Machine.

3. Serger

4. Rivet Press

5. Keyhole/Button hole cutter

6. Keyhole Sewing Machine

7. Shears.

8. Leather Stamping Tools.

So I am sure I am missing somethings here. I know there is a machine that just makes belt loops. I would also like to know the history behind Union Special sewing machines but I really haven't been able to find anything. I will keep up dating this as I figure everything out.

Deconstructed Nudie's.

Here is a pair of deconstructed Nudie's that I have been working on forever! I forgot before I started this project that the crotch had blown out and been repaired. I had to rip a most of the seam out. It was really disappointing because I am very interested in how the center seam meets the inside leg seam.

This is the before picture. These jeans were one more wash away from rotting to nothing. I think there were 100% pure vegetable indigo dye but I am not sure. The fit is Slim Jim and the size is a 32. Worn for about 3 years, washed numerous times. Oh these are my first pair of raw denim ever.

Here is the back. I got over zealous and took off the back patch and the pocket.

Here is everything except the inside pocket. I will put it in the picture below. I will only take apart one leg now. When I get everything else I need together I will use the other leg to help me figure out how everything is assembled.

Here is a close up of the back pocket.




These are two closer photos of all the different parts. You can really see how horrible the grundle area came apart. The jean practically melted in my hands.

Two More Patterns WITH Button Fly.

Check them out here. They Civil War Replicas. It is the only pant pattern I have come across that has a button fly . LINK.

Two More Patterns.

Here are two more patterns for a jean and a cow boy dress pant. I think either would work well for a pair of jeans.


Jean Link.


Dress Pant Link.

Here are some interesting old jean patents.

The image above is of a continuos fly made from one piece of denim. Most flys are made from two separate pieces. I am in the process of deconstructing an old pair of Nudies for pattern making ideas and information gathering purposes. I will show how a two part fly is constructed in an up coming post. Warehouse's Heller's Cafe reproduction jean (pictured below the patent) has a continuous fly. This is supposed to be stronger than a two part fly because it doesn't rely on threat/stitching to hold the fly together.

This patent shares a lot in common with the one above it but it utilizes a metal loop at the bottom of the fly. I love this idea but worry about the comfort level. Having a metal bar so close to the family jewels might cause problems. I don't know of any jeans being made today that have this feature. Its scarcity makes me think it was a better idea in theory than in reality

This is a non-rivet reenforcement patent. It shows any fabric being sewed onto the stress points in places where you usually see rivets. It could be leather, extra denim, ect. The modern reproductions jeans (pictured below the patent) are again Warehouse. This time however its there Duck Digger line.

This is another very cool pocket reinforcement idea. In stead of adding fabric, the top layer of fabric is sewn over the stress points. I have never seen a reproduction of this but I really like the idea. It is both esthetically appealing and structurally sound.

Simple Mens Pant

Here is a simple mens pant sewing instruction

http://www.independentliving.org/fashionfreaks/mpants.html

Online Denim Pattern Making!

What the What! This is awesome even if I have no idea what is going on.

This blogger shows how to make patterns for women's jeans. While not ideal it is a great starting point.

Weekend Designer

Here is a 1933 tailoring book. Its free and should have some useful information.

Principals of Tailoring.

Jean patterns.

Jean patterns are not easy to find. Here are the first patterns I have come across.

Straight leg and boot cut jean patterns (basic 501-ish fit).

link

California Pants

Needs back pockets and a lower waist but still a cool design.

link

These would make a cool pair of jeans with the addition of back pockets. I also like the range coat that this company makes.

link

Where to Buy Quality Denim

There is only one place I know of that is selling quality denim by the yard.

Shuttle Loom sells both Japanese denim and American Cone Denim ranging from 11 to 15 oz!

The Picture to the left is of Shuttle Looms black Japanese 14 oz selvedge denim. Its raw and 15.99 a yard. The prices rang from about 9.99 to about 16 bucks. This denim on the pricier side of the spectrum.

In the near future I will order a sample of each type of denim and wash them to see how they fade.

Hello Gentlemen!

So here is a little about myself and what I am trying to accomplish with How to Dungarees.

So I am probably the least qualified person to talk about denim construction. I have no sewing experience, or for that matter a sewing machine, no denim sourcing knowledge, and really no idea where to start. This blog will be about a completely clueless but passionate denim lovers quest to make a respectable pair of jeans by hand, from the ground up.

I have been told time and time again that as a kid would never wear jeans .I was a cubby little guy and would only wear the hilarious fat kid staple, sweatpants. My mom tells me it had something to do with heavy fabrics and tactile sensitivities.

I was born in the suburbs of Colorado and moved to Lexington Virginia when I was ten. Lexington is world unto its self. It has a population of about 7,000. Give or take a few thousand for the influx of collage students. The style there is a soul crushing county prep-ish atrocity. It is not rare to see cuffed pleated kakis or an entire suit made of unmatching plaid.

I made it out of the country when I was about 19. I move to D.C. where I started a retail career that continues to this day. I started at Urban Outfitters and quickly latched onto jeans and t-shirts. From there I worked a brief stint at the Levis store until I was hired at Denim Bar in Arlington.